Effective lighting is an ensemble effort: a number of fixtures must perform different tasks to give shape to an outdoor space.

Uplighting accentuates shapes--from the exposed trunks and branches of open-form trees, to the solid form of denser trees, to the canopy of leaves, which can bounce indirect light back to the ground. For maximum definition, use two or more fixtures placed at different points around a tree.
Well lights (not shown) direct the light directly up, and only used with deciduous trees. Most commonly 1-3 well lights are placed under the tree around the base of the trunk depending on the tree size

Downlighting uses fixtures placed above the target area--mounted to trees or arbors or under eaves. Because downlights can have different beam patterns, you can devise tightly focused accent lighting or broader, softer light for areas that need general illumination.

Moonlighting gives one of the most natural appearances to a patio or path under trees. Mounted high in the tree, the fixtures are aimed through leaves so they cast shadows and pools of light on the surfaces below--just as if there were a full moon above. The challenge is mounting and masking the hardware and wires. Glare control also can be a problem: the lights should be angled downward as much as possible.

Path lighting spills outward to define paths or changes of level. The best fixtures of this type have a cap that shields the light source from direct view. (Unfortunately, the widely available pagoda-style fixtures are often used along paths; the glare from their lamps usually defeats other, more subtle lighting efforts.) It's best to position these lights in a flower bed at one side of a path, since putting them on the lawn side invites confrontations with a lawn mower.

These fixtures are meant to be seen in daytime. They're available in a wide variety of shapes and metallic finishes to suit most architectural styles.
 

Sitemap